Multiple yarnovers, and how to treat them like a cast-on.

More on multiple yarnovers

I’ve been considering multiple yarnovers some more, and also talking them over with some friends on Ravelry. (Thanks to you for helping clarify my thoughts, if you’re reading this.) The doily in the featured image is my variation on Auge, which was the first time I’d encountered this technique. (direct link to original pattern)

I previously wrote about them in “Of double yarnovers and lark’s heads”.

I’ve since realized that one key way to make it easier to  deal with multiple yarnovers in a row is to drop them all off the needle and work with the loose strand of yarn instead. (Having a little slack makes it easier to get the needle into the stitches.) If it’s not the sort of double yarnover that really requires a (k1, p1) to be worked into it, I pick up the thread and twist it as if working a “make 1″, and then I knit (or purl it). Then I pick up the thread again, twist, and work the resulting stitch, repeating the maneuver until I’ve worked as many stitches as I made yarnovers.

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Buttercup, a free lace knitting pattern for five-petaled flowers

I’ve done one last set of outtakes from Wilderness. I found a five-petaled flower shape in it, and I haven’t seen many of those out there. I particularly like the way the mini cable makes the space between the petals into a symmetrical star.

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Out of the wild, a free lace knitting stitch pattern.

Out of the wild, two free stitch patterns

When I designed Wild/erness, I was struck by various motifs I saw within it. Reading Creating Original Handknitted Lace by Margaret Stove has given me more confidence about isolating motifs from lace, and so I thought I’d pull them out as stitch patterns in their own right. Caveat: removed from context, these no long qualify as “secret code” but I think they coordinate visually with Wild/erness. (I think it’s funny to include that, but I design more “secret code” stitches than not, so.)

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Wilderness, a free chart for any craft.

Wild/erness, a free chart for any craft

This chart or layout is suitable for any craft that’s worked on a grid. I’ve included  a two-color grid as well as an idea for a way to work the design in many colors.

The image above has been manipulated to make it look less like a chart, and therefore more like what a finished item might look like (or so I hope).

wilderness grids

The red outline shows the repeat to be used – the extra cells are to include at the edge to make everything tidy. The blue outline shows the section based only on the word wild.
Wild and wilderness in a chart to be used for any craft.

Here is the version I used as a starting point, but rotated  – feel free to change up the colors!

I’ve also posted a very different chart of Wilderness for lace knitting.

If you like my posts like this, please consider supporting me on Patreon. Thanks!

Creative Commons License Wild/erness patterns by Naomi Parkhurst are licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

Wilderness, a free lace knitting stitch pattern

Wild/erness, a free lace knitting pattern.

Every month, my backers on Patreon can suggest a word for me to encode, and I use a random number generator to pick the word of the month. This month, the RNG landed on wilderness, suggested by Nim. (The RNG has been very kind to Nim lately, and so she’s decided to stop offering words for a while so as to give other people’s words a chance.)

Anyway, it struck me that if I picked the right grid for wilderness, I could simultaneously offer lace knitting charts for just plain wild, so that the two stitch patterns would coordinate and flow into each other. It worked out even better than I had hoped!

The swatch above shows, from top to bottom, two repeats of wild followed by two repeats of wilderness. I used a picot bind-off, which is at the bottom of the image. wilderness lace knitting chart, a free stitch pattern(click to enlarge)

I’ve made stitch maps for Wild and Wilderness, as well as a printable PDF.

Rows 1-8 encompass the word wild. Rows 9-20 encode erness, and so if rows 1-20 are worked all in a row, the chart works for wilderness. Repeat 1-8 and 1-20 as desired; they will flow into each other. Pattern repeats every 12 stitches, with the exception of the mini-cables that are worked on Row 19. If working only one repeat of the stitch pattern, just work plain knit stitches where half a cable would be.

Abbreviations:

  • 1/1 LC: Slip next stitch to cable needle and place at front of work, knit 1, then knit 1 from cable needle.
  • 1/1 RC: Slip next stitch to cable needle and place at back of work, knit 1, then knit 1 from cable needle.
  • k: knit.
  • k2tog: knit 2 stitches together as if they were 1. (Right-leaning decrease)
  • p: purl.
  • sl2 — k1 — p2sso: slip the next 2 stitches as if to knit 2 together, knit the next stitch, then pass the 2 slipped stitches over the third.
  • ssk: slip each of the next 2 stitches as if to knit, then knit them together through the back loop.
  • yo: yarn over.

Wild/erness lace, a free stitch pattern
Row 1 (RS): (Yo, ssk, k1) x 2, *k1, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo x 2, ssk, k1, yo, ssk, k1 ; work from *, (k1, k2tog, yo) x 2.
Row 2 (WS): P6, *p5, k1, p6 ; work from *, p6.
Row 3: K1, ssk, yo, k1, yo, ssk, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k2, ssk, yo, k1, yo, ssk ; work from *, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, yo, *yo, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, yo ; work from *, yo, ssk, yo, k2, ssk.
Row 6: P5, k1, *p11, k1 ; work from *, p6.
Row 7: K1, yo, k2tog x 2, k1, yo, *yo, k1, ssk x 2, yo, 1/1 RC, yo, k2tog x 2, k1, yo ; work from *, yo, k1, ssk x 2, yo, k1.
Row 8: Repeat Row 6.
(Repeat Rows 1-8 if only working wild.)
Row 9: Yo, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, *yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, yo x 2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo ; work from *, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, yo.
Row 10: P5, k1, *(p5, k1) x 2 ; work from *, p6.
Row 11: K1, sl2 — k1 — p2sso, yo, k2, yo, *yo, k2, yo, sl2 — k1 — p2sso, k2, sl2 — k1 — p2sso, yo, k2, yo ; work from *, yo, k2, yo, sl2 — k1 — p2sso, k1.
Row 12: Repeat Row 6.
Row 13: K3, yo, ssk, k1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k2, 1/1 RC, k2, yo, ssk, k1 ; work from *, k1, k2tog, yo, k3.
Row 14: Purl.
Row 15: Yo, (k1, ssk) x 2, yo, *yo, (k2tog, k1) x 2, yo x 2, (k1, ssk) x 2, yo ; work from *, yo, (k2tog, k1) x 2, yo.
Row 16: Repeat Row 10.
Row 17: K2, (yo, ssk) x 2, *(k2tog, yo) x 2, k4, (yo, ssk) x 2 ; work from *, (k2tog, yo) x 2, k2.
Row 18: Purl.
Row 19: K1, (ssk, yo) x 2, *1/1 RC, (yo, k2tog) x 2, 1/1 RC, (ssk, yo) x 2 ; work from *, 1/1 RC, (yo, k2tog) x 2, k1.
Row 20: Purl.

I’ve also posted a chart usable for a variety of crafts an outtake from this stitch pattern, Out of the Wild.

If you like my posts like this, please consider supporting me on Patreon. Thanks!
Creative Commons License Wild/erness stitch patterns by Naomi Parkhurst are licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

A Knitting Library: On Color

I’ve seen friends of mine talking recently about difficulties in choosing color combinations. These are some books that I hope might provide some good ideas, both with choosing colors and with different techniques for working with multiple colors in knitting.

The Essential Guide to Color Knitting Techniques, by Margaret Radcliffe. Storey Publishing. ISBN 978160342040

The Essential Guide to Color Knitting Techniques starts out with basic information about the color wheel, how neighboring colors affect each other, and some ways of testing yarn color combinations. Lots of books include this information, but it’s a good idea to have access to the theory somewhere. Radcliffe then moves on to what I consider the really valuable parts of the book: how to play with color in textured stitch patterns, how to work with different kinds of multicolor yarns to best effect, and in-depth information about how to work stranded knitting, intarsia, twined knitting, and other techniques. If I could only have access to one book about knitting and color, I think I’d pick this one.

Digression

One of my favorite ways of choosing colors (if I’m not limited to choosing from yarns that are at hand) is to look around me for something that has color combinations I like already, whether a piece of fabric, the view out my window, or a picture. The next three books all have examples of this, and I suspect this might be a more helpful method for choosing colors for some people than the color wheel. You might also want to look at the Color Exercises I did a few years back to get some ideas for software to help with this.

Color from the Heart: Seven Great Ways to Make Quilts with Colors You Love, by Gai Perry.

“What?” I imagine you saying, “a quilt book?” Yes, a quilt book. I learned more about working with color from this book than anywhere else, and I am certain that there’s a lot that anyone can learn from it. For instance, she shows that if you’re combining a lot of different blues in a project, throwing in the occasional blue-green or violet will still give an overall impression of blue. She discusses some ways of working with regular color theory as well as pulling color combinations from things that you like. There are exercises that I suspect can be used for scrap knitting (sock yarn blankets!) as well as scrap quilting. If I could only have two books about working with color, this would be the second.

Alice Starmore’s Book of Fair Isle Knitting, by Alice Starmore. Dover Books. ISBN 9780486472188

I’m including this not only for Starmore’s instructions on how best to arrange colors in traditional Fair Isle colorwork, but also because she talks about how she pulls color combinations out of photographs and her surroundings and provides examples.

Knitting Color: Design Inspiration from Around the World, by Brandon Mabley. Sixth & Spring Books. ISBN 9781933027074

The beginning of this book is Mabley’s suggestions for pulling colors out of pictures that the student likes and also about swatching (not gauge swatching – just learning to put colors together). I think I’d recommend getting this book from the library and then purchasing it if the book as a whole inspires you.

How about you? What books about working with color would you recommend?